"Professionalism, a spirit of discovery and sustainability – that’s what KSB and I have in common"

Do you remember the first time you stood on a surfboard?

As a kid, I lived in Plentzia, a small coastal town in Spain. The beach was five minutes from my house. In the summer, we spent whole days there. When I was seven, my family gave me a Boogie Board (which you lay down on to surf). I spent hours in the water. I often argued with my mum because she didn’t want me to go back in right after a meal. At some point, I stood up on the Boogie Board. I told my parents I needed a real surfboard, but they thought it was too dangerous and told me to buy it myself. So, I started saving my pocket money –one or two euros every Sunday – in a piggy bank. When I finally went to buy my first surfboard, I broke the piggy bank in the middle of the shop. The shop owner was tripping when he saw all the coins! I found a cheap second-hand board that had broken in two and been repaired. That’s how I started surfing at eight.

How did you get into big wave surfing?

I started surfing big waves when I was 13. At first, I just wanted to build more confidence for smaller waves in competitions. But I loved the adrenaline and the feeling of being intimidated by a big wave and still trying it again and again. When I was 17, I was invited to a competition in my hometown, the Punta Galea Challenge, and I won. That was the start of my international career. I travelled, met the best big wave surfers and eventually qualified for the Big Wave World Tour. I was one of only 12 surfers worldwide on the tour, and the youngest at 18. The others were 40 or 50 years old. They were like parents to me, taking care of me and my equipment. That’s why I love big wave surfing; it connects me with the best people ever who are generous and caring.

You once said that big wave surfing is 80 percent mentality and 20 percent fitness, but most of us have no idea what that really means. Can you explain?

People often ask me if I have fear. Yes, I have been intimidated by waves hundreds of times. You don’t become a great big wave surfer overnight. You have to build confidence and experience. If you get injured, your confidence drops and you have to start rebuilding it, step by step. You feel intimidated, get back up and keep pushing until you master the wave. But when everything comes together, I cry tears of joy.

One unique thing about your sport is that you can’t schedule it. You have to wait for the right conditions and travel a lot. What does your life look like?

That’s the hardest part of my sport. You never know what’s going to happen or where you’re going next. Right now, I’m at home, but I have no idea where I’ll be in five days. Next week, a swell is coming; Europe will have massive waves. I have to decide where they will be biggest and best – maybe Ireland, maybe Portugal, maybe further south in the Canaries. The best part is that even with perfect forecasts, nature surprises you. Sometimes the waves aren’t as good as expected, or they’re even better. Even with top technology, there are errors. But the hardest part for me is planning personal commitments. I tell friends, ‘Let’s have a barbecue next week’, and then I end up in Hawaii. They understand by now.

You’ve partnered with KSB, a company known for innovation, performance and sustainability. Do you see parallels to your sport?

Absolutely. Both KSB and I work with water and nature. KSB’s engineers carefully study conditions before installing a pump, just as I do before surfing a big wave. They demonstrate professionalism and a spirit of discovery in terms of searching for new solutions, just like me when I look for new waves to surf. That’s a pretty good connection we have. KSB, like me, is a local talent on a global stage – a global champion. But what’s even more important to me is our commitment to sustainability. I travel to many remote places to find new waves, such as Sierra Leone and Angola. In doing so, I spend a great deal of time with local communities, such as the Kogi tribe in northern Colombia. Therefore, I see firsthand the impact humans have on the oceans and the communities that depend on them. Some say it’s too late, but I say the next generation deserves a healthy environment – clean beaches without plastic. We must take sustainability seriously because it’s essential for future generations. KSB understands that, and that’s what matters most to me.

You’re close to nature, you travel extensively and you see human impact firsthand. How do you integrate sustainability into your life and sport?

We’re working on reducing our environmental footprint by using better materials for surfboards, more sustainable wetsuits and creams, and pushing manufacturers to use eco-friendly materials. We also test and give feedback on sustainable products to help improve them. As a brand ambassador, I spread awareness worldwide. KSB does the same.

What are your surfing goals for the coming years?

My main goal is to keep doing what I do – riding massive waves – for as long as possible. I started at 13 and want to keep going until I’m 50.

No trophies you’re chasing?

That’s a goal, too. But if you stay fit and surf the biggest waves, the trophies and world titles come naturally. I’ve come close a few times. I also love discovering new surf spots, especially in Africa. We use Google Earth to find places where no surfboard has ever been. We use knowledge and technology to plan trips. We often fail, but sometimes we find a new wave. That’s a prize in itself. The travel, the people you meet – that’s the best part.

Do you know where you’re heading next?

No, I just know that a swell is coming in seven days. The longer I wait, the more accurate the data become. So, I decide two days before. Sometimes you wait years for the right wave. You choose a spot, fly out with your filmer, jump into the water jet-lagged – and then everything is different from what you expected. Maybe you get a wave, maybe not. There is so much hard work behind it. That’s why it is so beautiful to me!